Manufacture of welted shoes



F. R. 'MERRITTI 1,974,502

MANUFACTURE OF WELTED SHOES Filed Nqv. 25, 1931 2 SheetsSheet l [Wm/70R q RQW Sept. 25, I934.

MANUFACTURE'OF WELTED SHOES Filed Nov. 25, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2- A/l f/WUR 'q-mM-sq M F. R. MERRITT 1,974,502 0 urireo' IJANUFACTIJRE F WELTED SHOES Frank R. Merritt, Havel-hill, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. 3., a corporation of New Jersey Application November 25, 1931, Serial No. 577,27!

6 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in methods of manufacturing shoes and is herein illustrated with special reference to the manu-. facture of welted shoes having cement-attached 1 soles. 7

It is an object of my invention to provide shoes having a simple and neat but. attractive ornamentation, particularly applicable to women's novelty shoes. As illustrated herein, this is accornplished by providing a bead upon the welt or a' shoe, as by attaching a beaded welt to a lasted shoe upper, and attaching, as by cement,

a sole to the lasted shoe in such a manner that the head will be visible adjacent to the shoe upper at the forepart oi the shoe and hidden by the edge of the sole at the shank portion. In the illustrated shoe this head contrasts in color with the material of the shoe upper thereby producing a novel and pleasing appearance.

With the above and other objects in view the invention will now be described with respect to the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe in the process of manufacture in accordance with my invention showing the shoe after the welting operation but before the attachment of the outsole;

Figs. 2 and 3 are transverse sections on the lines IIH and m-m respectively oi Fig. i;

Fig. 4 is a side elevation of a finished shoe manui'aotured in accordance with my invention;

Figs; 5 and 6 are transverse sections on the lines V-V and VI-VI respectively of Fig. 4;

Figs. 7 and 8 are cross sectional views on a much enlarged scale of welting which may be used in the practice of my invention.

The shoe, in connection with which the mactice of my invention is illustrated herein, is a welted shoe having a cement attached outsole. It provided with an insole 10, illustrated as of the well-known economy type, reinforced with a piece of duck or other suitable fabric 12 and provided with a lip 14 (Fig. 2). The lasting is performed as, for example, in the manufacture oi Goodyear Welt shoes, after which a welt 18 is attached by an inseam 18 to the shoe upper is and the lip 14 of the insole 10. The surplus portion of the upper (illustrated at 20 in Fig. 2) the upstanding portion of the lip 14, and the inner edge of the welt 16 are trimmed off by the usual inseam trimming operation, leaving the edge surface of those parts substantially as illustrated at 21 in Fig. 3 at the shank. and forepart oi the shoe.

In order to produce the desired ornamental effect, the welt 16 is provided with a bead 22,

shown most conspicuously in Figs. 7 and 8 which indicate two difierent ways in which the bead may be formed by splitting and folding the material of the welt. To produce desirable color effects the grain surface of the welting and the bead may advantageously be colored to contrast with the material of the shoe upper. This may be done, for example, by applying a suitable coating of lacquer, indicated by the heavy lines at 24. in Figs. 7 and 8, to the surface of the welting, including the heading, which is to lie adjacent to the shoe upper. After the inseam trimming operation the edge surfaces 21 resulting from the inseam trimming operation may advantageously be rolled, for example with the automatic leveling machine commonly used for leveling the outsoles of Goodyear Welt shoes, bottom filler 28 (Fig. 5) is applied to the low places at the forepart of the shoe and a suitable shank stiffener 30 (Fig. 6) inserted. Then the edge surfaces 21 and the flesh surface of the welt 16 will be roughened. The marginal portion of the outsolc 32 at the forepart, and particularly at the shank, may be reduced to provide a light edge efiect. The outsole 32 may then be cement attached, if desired, in known fashion, for example with the aid of a cement sole attaching machine of the character disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,397,105, granted February 14, 1933, on an application filed in the name of Milton H. Ballard. After this a heel-3d is attached to the shoe in usual manner and the edge of the sole trimmed and set.

The pressure applied by the cement sole attaching machine causes the welt 16 to hug the shoe upper 19 closely at the shank portion of the shoe so that the marginal portion or" the welt is I not separated from the shoe upper as it is at the .forepart of the shoe. The edge trimming operation at the forepart of the shoe should be per;- iormed in such a way as to leave only a relative- 1y small extension of the sole beyond the bead 22, as illustrated in Fig. 5, so that the head is visible against the shoe upper and close to the edge of the sole at the forepart of the shoe, extending about the iorepart in the crease between the sole and the shoe upper, as shown in Fig. 4. In the shank portion of the shoe, however, the outsole 32 and welt ld lying closely against the shoe upper, conceal the bead which at that portion of the shoe is compacted by the pressure of the ocment sole attaching operation. The edge trimming operation, it should be noted, is performed so as to remove all of the visible colored portion of the welt 24 except the bead 22, the edge trimming cutter being shaped in known fashion to remove the surface of the welt between the bead and the edge of the welt as well as the edge portion of the sole and the welt.

As pointed out above, the welt 22 is colored to contrast, more or less, with the shoe upper. ,Particularly pleasing effects may be obtained by the use of beaded welting colored to match material contrasting in color with the body of the shoe upper and applied thereto in suitable shapes, for example in the form of narrow bands, as illustrated at 36 in Figs. 1 and 4. This ornamental material, as well as the bead of the welting, may be of a darker or lighter shade than the color of the body of the shoe upper or it may be of an entirely different color contrasting more vigorously with the shoe upper.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises attaching a beaded welt to the lasted upper and insole of a. shoe, pressing a sole against the welt with cement therebetween, and causing the pressure to force the marginal portion of the welt toward and into contact with the upper of the shoe at the shank whereby the bead of the welt, which is visible adjacent to the shoe upper at the forepart of the shoe, is concealed at the shank portion of the shoe.

2. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises attaching to the lasted upper and insole of a shoe a welt having a bead colored to contrast with the color of the shoe upper, and cement attaching a sole to the welt and to the adjacent portion of the shoe bottom in such a manner that the bead of the welt is visible between the sole and the shoe upper at the forepart of the shoe but is hidden at the shank.

3. That improvement in methods of manufac turing shoes which comprises attaching a beaded welt to a lasted shoe upper and insole, cement attaching a sole under pressure to the welt and the adjacent portion of the shoe bottom, and causing the cement sole attaching pressure to force the marginal portion of the welt toward and into contact with the uppenof the shoe at the shank whereby the bead of the welt, which is visible adjacent to the shoe upper at the forepart of the shoe, is concealed at the shank portion of the shoe.

4. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises attaching a welt by an inseam to the marginal portion of a lasted shoe upper and -to the lip of the insole, the welt having a bead contrasting in color with the shoe upper, trimming off the surplus material of the shoe upper and the lip of the insole adjacent to the inseam, cement attaching a sole under pressure to the welt and the trimmed edges of the upper, welt and insole stock resulting from the inseam trimming operation so that the bead of the welt, which is visible adjacent to the shoe upper at the forepart of the shoe, is concealed at the shank portion.

5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises attaching a beaded welt by an inseam to the marginal portion of a lasted shoe upper and to the lip of an insole, inseam-trimming the shoe and thereby removing the surplus material of the shoe upper, the lip of the insole and the edge of the welt adjacent to the inseam, and cement attaching a sole under pressure to the welt and the trimmed edges of the upper, welt and insole stock resulting from the inseam trimming operation and causing the cement sole attaching pressure to force the marginal portion of the welt toward and into contact with the upper of the shoe at the shank whereby the head of the welt, which is visible adjacent to the shoe upper at the forepart of the shoe, is concealed at the shank portion of the shoe.

6. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing an upper in lasted relation to a lipped insole on a last, attaching a beaded welt, of a color contrasting with that of the shoe upper, by an inseam to the marginal portion of the lasted shoe upper and to the lip of the insole, inseam trimming the shoe and thereby removing the surplus material of the shoe upper, the lip of the insole and the edge of the welt adjacent to the inseam, cement attaching a sole to the welt and the trimmed edges of the upper, Welt and insole stock resulting from the inseam trimming operation, and edge trimming the sole in such a way as to remove all of the visible colored portion of the welt except the bead.

FRANK R. MERRITT. 

